Kokedama Care FAQ
Your Complete Guide to Japanese Moss Ball Care
Kokedama (苔玉), meaning “moss ball” in Japanese, is a traditional planting technique where a plant’s roots are wrapped in soil and encased in natural moss instead of being placed in a pot.
Originating from Japan during the Edo period, kokedama began as a simple, accessible way to grow plants — and has evolved into a modern form of living botanical art.
Each Plants & What Knot kokedama is handcrafted and designed to function as both a plant and a sculpture.
Kokedama are watered by soaking — not by pouring water over the top.
To water:
- Fill a bowl with room temperature water.
- Submerge the entire moss ball.
- Let soak for 10–15 minutes (until air bubbles stop rising).
- Remove and allow to drip dry or gently squeeze to release excess water.
- Allow to fully drain before placing back on a plate or hanging.
Alternate Method: Watering in a Dish
You can also water from below. This is particularly beneficial for plants that do not like wet foliage and need to be bottom watered.
- Place the kokedama in a shallow dish.
- Pour water into the dish (not over the leaves).
- Allow the moss ball to absorb the water from the bottom.
Important: The dish must hold enough water to fully saturate the moss ball. If it’s too small, you may need to refill it during watering or water more frequently.
The goal is full hydration — not just a wet bottom layer.
Always water based on weight — not a strict schedule.
Your kokedama should feel very light, firm, and almost like a styrofoam ball when it’s ready for water.
During the first week you have your kokedama, we recommend picking it up every day. This helps you learn how quickly it drinks in your specific light and humidity. You’ll start to notice the weight difference from day to day.
Additional Clues It Needs Water:
- The moss ball feels very light
- Foliage begins to gently droop
If you notice early signs of drooping, water promptly. Do not wait until the plant is fully wilted.
General Watering Range:
Most kokedama need watering every 3–10 days, depending on:
- Light exposure
- Humidity
- Plant type
When in doubt, slightly underwater rather than overwater.
Misting helps increase humidity, but it does not replace soaking.
The moss ball must be fully saturated periodically to properly hydrate the root system.
Most tropical plants will appreciate occasional spraying on the foliage to increase humidity — especially in dry indoor environments.
However, always check your specific plant type. Some species do not like wet leaves and should be bottom watered only (for example, plants with fuzzy foliage or certain flowering varieties).
Light requirements depend on the specific plant species inside your kokedama.
In general, most tropical plants prefer bright, indirect light — near a window with filtered sun is ideal. Avoid harsh, direct afternoon sun, which can dry out the moss too quickly.
Succulents and cacti, on the other hand, require direct sunlight and should be placed in a bright, sunny window.
If you're unsure of your plant type, check your product listing or reach out — proper light makes all the difference in keeping your kokedama healthy.
With proper care, a kokedama can last for years. You may notice it needs re-mossing if:
- Moss thins or fades
- Roots grow through the moss
- It dries out faster (a sign of becoming rootbound)
Re-mossing is similar to traditional repotting. Timing varies depending on plant type, growth rate, and environment.
General guidelines:
- Most tropical plants: every 1–2 years
- Succulents, cacti, and many ferns: can go many years or even indefinitely
You may also re-moss for aesthetic reasons. If you prefer your kokedama looking fresh and bright green, you might refresh it every 4–6 months. If you enjoy a more natural, organic evolution, you can wait longer — as long as the plant remains healthy.
You can also repot into a traditional planter at any time.
Plants & What Knot Re-Mossing Service
Re-mossing starts at $20. Bring your kokedama to one of our events or drop it off at our Chantilly studio.
Email hello@plantsandwhatknot.com to coordinate. Turnaround is typically about one week.
A thin layer of white fuzz on the moss is usually harmless surface mold. It can develop in high humidity, low light, or if the moss stays wet for too long.
This is typically cosmetic and does not harm the plant itself.
To correct it:
- Allow the kokedama to dry more thoroughly between waterings
- Increase sunlight (bright, indirect light is ideal)
- Improve air circulation
- Gently wipe the area with an antibacterial wipe or a soft cloth with mild soapy water
If mold continues to return, reduce watering frequency and ensure the moss is not staying consistently damp.
Moss naturally changes color over time.
At Plants & What Knot, we use dried sphagnum moss that is custom-dyed with food- and plant-safe dye. The natural color of dried sphagnum moss is brown — so if you begin to see brown tones, you are simply seeing the moss return to its original state.
We’ve found this method maintains the beautiful green aesthetic much longer than live sheet moss, which is difficult to sustain indoors and often turns brown even faster.
When moss turns brown, it does not harm the plant in any way. If you don’t love the look, you can:
- Re-moss your kokedama (email hello@plantsandwhatknot.com to schedule)
- Use our “Green Glow Up” moss spray to refresh that vibrant green look
As long as the plant itself is healthy, brown moss is purely cosmetic.
Plants & What Knot kokedama are not designed to be reusable.
Each kokedama is hand-sculpted around the individual plant’s root ball. The moss ball is custom-built to fit that specific plant, so it cannot simply be opened and reused for another plant.
If you have a new plant you’d like to have “kokedama-ed,” we’d love to help.
Please email hello@plantsandwhatknot.com for a custom kokedama quote.
There are many different kokedama techniques and materials used around the world.
At Plants & What Knot, we hand-sculpt each kokedama by shaping potting soil around the plant’s root ball to form a perfect sphere. We then wrap the ball in sphagnum moss and secure it with fishing line to hold everything in place.
Each piece is individually crafted to support the specific plant inside — creating a functional root system wrapped in a sculptural moss exterior.